Delectable kebabs, aromatic biryani, and airy, ethereal desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has long been a dream destination for epicures, with locals and visitors equally swearing by its superb cuisine.
A Global Honor
Last month, UNESCO recognised it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – placing it on a prestigious list of international urban centers and igniting hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's sublime food. With this title, it becomes part of a global network of over 400 cities across more than 100 countries committed to promoting "innovation as a catalyst of city development that is sustainable".
The accolade "stands as proof of its profound culinary traditions and vibrant food ecosystem," as noted by a representative from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to earn a spot in this highly sought-after list of seventy urban centers around the world.
A City Defined by Food
The accolade for this time-honored city arrives as hardly a shock to its locals or passionate food lovers. Many agree with the opinion that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO recognition, this adored, chaotic, and vibrant city – the capital of India's biggest state – is now in the spotlight for what has always characterized its essence: an profound devotion for food.
"'What will be cooked, how should it be prepared' is a continued conversation from morning until going to bed in many homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are often assessed by the excellence of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The Nawabi City – as it's widely known after its historic wealthy Muslim rulers – is noted for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were invented, evolved, and taken to extraordinary levels in their opulent kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were centers of gastronomic creativity, merging Iranian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were fashioned. Legend has it that the mutton galouti was invented to cater to an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His cooks processed the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so soft that it required no chewing.
But arguably the greatest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid tightly closed with a flour paste.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Besides the famous kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also created a vast array of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a vegetarian's paradise.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just showcases fresh harvests but also provides the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Almost on many street corners, there are little shops and stalls – lesser-known gems that are immensely favored by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, throngs of people start assembling from the crack of dawn at a famous tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, offered in earthenware cups, along with incredibly soft buns covered in hand-churned white butter.
To start the day, one can make their way to a unpretentious joint operating in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was founded, the place is still highly popular for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also boasts remarkable treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert savored in the winter. The process of making it is precise and involved. The artisan beats the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its amazing light consistency.
On crisp mornings, street vendors can be seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of however express concern that their children are unwilling to learn the craft.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's immense food legacy places it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will be realized only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – influenced by multi-generational food businesses, from modest street carts to busy restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is believed, will inspire more people around the world to learn these narratives and visit the city to taste the food wonders of Lucknow.
